Located in the Lily Tent by the County Court House - Friday, Saturday and Sunday.
Bring in your lilies Thursday 8-10pm or Friday 8-9:30 am. Judging will take place
Friday morning - tent open for viewing at noon. Stems and Design exhibits
may not be removed before 4:00pm on Sunday.
Lily bulbs are never completely dormant so they must be planted as soon as possible. If for some reason you are unable to plant your bulbs immediately, then keep them refrigerated until you can plant them. Store them in a poly bag in slightly damp peat moss in the crisper of the fridge.
1. Location: It is important to choose the right location. Lilies require direct sunlight for part to all of the day. They also require "Well drained soil". A medium sandy loam soil with a reasonable amount of humus is ideal. Peat moss can also be added. Heavy soils can be lightened with course sand and peat moss. We do not recommend the use of manure (old or new). Lilies makes a nice show if they are planted in triangular groups of three bulbs of the same variety, spaced 12"-18" apart and to a depth of 4"-6".
2. Watering: It is important to thoroughly water your bulbs after planting to ensure the soil settles in around the roots. They do not require daily watering but when watering be sure to water deeply enough to reach the bulb. Avoid wetting the leaves. Excessive watering will cause your bulb to rot.
3. Fertilizing: A light to moderate fertilizer (20-20-20) can be applied just before flowering and after blooming is completed to keep bulbs healthy.
4. Labelling: It is wise to mark each bulb planted with a stake and a weather resitant marker, so as not to damage the lily shoots in the spring when working around your lily bulbs.
5. Fall Care: Do not remove or cutback the spent stalks until complete dieback has occurred in the fall or it could weaken the bulb. The fall is also the best time to divide your clumps of lilies. This is advised to be done about every 4-5 years.
Note: Orientals, Trumpet and Aurelians can be grown in the prairies but it takes a little more effort on your part of amending the soil and providing heavier winter protection of straw, leaves and peat moss. These large beautiful scented flowers that bloom late summer will be well worth the extra effort needed. For this reason, we do not offer replacement for failure to grow on these varieties.
The leaves of lily plants need to remain green after flowering in order to carry nutrients to the bulb for next year's flowers
Botrytis is a fungus that attacks the above-ground parts of the lilies and other plants. The spores are splashed up onto the foliage by rain or water. If left unchecked the bulb may diminish in vigor.
Looks like: The spores produce brown spots with lighter margins and are darker near the centre. It usually starts at the bottom of the plant and works its way up the stem of leaves.
1. Plant lilies in areas which allow good air circulation and divide clumps when growth gets dense.
2. In the fall, clean up all dead diseased foliage and stems and destroy. Do not compost them.
3. Early in spring, spray when wet, cool weather is forecast. Cool spraying is only effective when the foliage is dry. The spray must cover the underside of leaves. Spray with 1 tablespoon baking soda, 1 gallon of water, a squirt of dish detergent (simple but very effective and should be repeated every two weeks or so). Also could use Copper based spray (not very effective once plant is infected but good if used in spring or Commercial product containing benomyl (for outbreaks)
4. Applying a mulch at the base of the plant in early spring may help to keep the fungus from being splashed onto the leaves since the disease is soil borne.
Destructive Lily Leaf Beetle found in Gladstone
By Kate Jackman-Atkinson
The Neepawa Banner
Neepawa’s Lily Festival could be facing a new threat. This time, it has nothing to do with a shortage of volunteers or organizers, but a possible shortage of lilies.
The lily leaf beetle, which is native to Europe and North Africa, has been found in the neighbouring town of Gladstone. The presence of the destructive insects close to Neepawa troubles local lily growers.
Brent Hunter, Lily Festival Chairman, said that the beetle had previously been in Quebec and Ontario for “quite a few years”. It has been in Portage la Prairie for the last four years. This is the first year that the insect has been found in Gladstone.
Hunter says that the beetles are a threat because, “birds won’t eat them, they have no natural predators”.
The beetles feed on true lilies and fritillaries. If left alone, the beetles will defoliate the lily plant.
According to Hunter, an infestation of the insects would be “quite devastating”, continuing, he says “there would be no [Lily] Festival”.
Hunter says the best course of action is to “keep a vigilant watch” on lily beds. Something echoed by Nigel Strohman, of the Lily Nook and President of the Manitoba Regional Lily Society. Strohman said, “it’s a matter of control,” saying that if the beetles are found, they must be “vigilant about picking them” and use chemical control. Strohman said that Rotenone, an organic powder, works well.
Most of the damage is done by larvae, which feed in spring. The larvae begin by feeding on the underside of the plant’s leaves, and then moves to the top of the leaf. Hunter describes the larvae as “gross”, they cover themselves in their own feces to discourage predators.
After 16-24 days of feeding, the larvae drop to the ground and pupate for 20-25 days. Once the adults emerge, they climb back up the plant and feed until fall. The adult beetles are 6-8mm in length and have bright red wing covers.
The beetles overwinter in the surrounding plant or soil debris and then lay their eggs in the spring. They will lay between 200 and 400 eggs on the underside of the lily’s leaves.
The beetles move on air currents and also fly short distances. They can also be spread by replanting bulbs or flowers which are contaminated with the beetles.
While the lily leaf beetle has no natural predators, there are a number of ways to control the insect. Hand picking and squishing the bugs works well with adults. Insecticides such as Sevin, Malathion, Safer’s End-All or Rotenone also work well. At the larvae stage, Neem oil can be sprayed on the insects and plant every 5 to 7 days. Many of these products are available locally.
The beetles were originally introduced to North America via Maine. They spread to Ontario and Quebec after that. Strohman says that they suspect the insect came to Manitoba through a shipment of potted lilies from Ontario. He said that the contaminated lilies “went to a superchain and were sold throughout western Canada.”
Strohman says, “all our bulbs are inspected” before being shipped.
As for the spread of the beetle further west to Neepawa, Strohman says, “it’s just a matter of time, if they are in Gladstone now”.
Anyone who suspects that they have lily leaf beetles are encouraged to call either the Manitoba Lily Society’s beetle report line (856-084) or Hunter at Beyond the Garden Gate (476-2108).